Announcement: Backyard Shed Plans – Step by Step Plans for An Outdoor Storage Bin

For people who already have a garage and shed but still need some more storage room you may want to consider building an outdoor storage bin. As part of the backyard shed plans here, this handy bin has a top lid that opens for easy access as well as doors at the bottom to get to the lower compartments. Handy for any purpose, storing children’s outdoor games and equipment, fishing gear, fold away lawn chairs, summer lawn decorations, smaller gardening equipment and so on. If you want backyard shed plans that give you something useful, pleasing to look at, but smaller and an easier project to tackle then these step by step plans for an outdoor storage bin may be perfect for you. Keep your yard tidy and your items protected from the weather and elements.

build backyard shed storage bin

Backyard Shed Plans

You will need:
•Two textured cedar plywood siding 5/8” x 4 x 8′
•Two BC fir plywood handy panels 3/4” x 2 x 4′
•Two cedar 1 x 2” x 8′
•Six rough sawn cedar 1 x 3” x 8′
•Two rough sawn cedar 1 x 4” x 8′
•One pine 2 x 2” x 8′
•One pine 1 x 2” x 8′
•A drill
•jig saw
•circular saw
•tape measure
•sand paper
•4 butt hinges
•two 4” strap hinges
•1 1/4” deck screws
•2 1/2” deck screws
•Moisture-resistant glue
•Two door catches
•Clear wood sealer or other finish

A = Cut one lid to 5/8 x 24 x 48 inches from one plywood siding

B = Cut two lid edges to ¾ x 1 ½ x 45 inches from cedar

C = Cut two lid ends to ¾ x 1 ½ x 24 inches from cedar

D = Cut one lid stringer to ¾ x 2 ½ x 21 inches from cedar

E = Cut two end panels to 5/8 x 22 x 42 inches from plywood siding

F = Cut one back panel to 5/8 x 44 ¾ x 42 inches from plywood siding

G = Cut one front panel to 5/8 x 44 ¾ x 37 ½ inches from plywood siding

H = Cut two shelves to ¾ x 20 ¾ x 44 ¾ inches from fir plywood

I = Cut Two door panels to 5/8 x 15 ¾ x 17 ¾ inches from plywood siding

J = Cut four door stiles ¾ x 3 ½ x 21 ¼ inches from cedar

K = Cut four door rails to ¾ x 3 ½ x 12 ¼ inches from cedar

L = Cut two kickboards to ¾ x 2 ½ x 47 ½ inches from cedar

M = Cut two end plates to ¾ x 2 ½ x 22 inches from cedar

N = Cut four end trims ¾ x 2 ½ x 39 ½ inches from cedar

O = Cut two front trim to ¾ x 2 ½ x 35 inches from cedar

P = Cut two back trim to ¾ x 2 ½ x 39 ½ inches from cedar

Q = Cut one hinge cleat to ¾ x 1 ½ x 44 ¾ inches from pine

R = Cut four shelf cleat to 1 ½ x 1 ½ x 20 ¾ inches from pine

S = Cut two back cleat to 1 ½ x 1 ½ x 41 ¾ inches from pine

T = Cut two door cleat to ¾ x 1 ½ x 18 inches from pine

Step by step backyard shed plans for an outdoor storage bin – Stage One – The lid

1.Cut the lid, the led edges, lid ends and lid stringer (A-D) using the circular saw and a straightedge saw. Have the lid ends and edges so that they lay smooth side up and attach together with 2 ½ inch deck screws and glue. In the middle use the same means to attach the the lid stringer.
2.On this frame now apply the glue on the top faces of the edges, ends and stringer then take the lid and place it on top, using 1 ¼ inch deck screws too.

Step by step backyard shed plans for an outdoor storage bin – Stage Two – The panels

1.Cut (F) and (G) the back and front panels and on the inside of the front one measuring from the bottom up draw straight lines at 5 and 23 inches. From each side measure in 4 and 20 inches and draw two straight lines – this is where you will cutout the door openings. Do this by using the drill to drill a 3/8inch starter hole at one corner of each opening then use the jig saw and sand smooth.
2.Cut out (E) the end panels and on the front edge of each one measuring down mark 4 ½ inches then with a line connect these marks to the top corners on the back edge of the panel so that cross-cutting lines are created for the back to front tapers. Use the circular saw to cut along these lines.
3.Now to attach the panels together stand the back panel and fasten it to the side panels using 1 1 /4 inch deck screws and glue

Step by step plans for an outdoor storage bin – Stage Three – The shelves

1.Cut out (H) the shelves then from the bottom of the end panels measure up 25 inches and mark – this is where the top shelf will go. Now cut (R and S) the shelf and back cleats. Attach them using glue just under the marks you made then use 1 ¼ inch deck screws through the back and end panels into the cleats.
2.Now use 1 ¼ inch deck screws to attach the top shelf to the cleats and also drive screws from the back panel into the shelf.
3.The bottom shelf needs to be marked at 4 inches from the bottom of the side panels. Do the bottom cleats and bottom shelf in the same way you did the top.
4.Now take the front panel you cut out earlier and attach to the front between the end panels using 2 ½ inch deck screws and glue.

Step by step plans for an outdoor storage bin – Stage Four – The trim

1.Cut out (L,M,N,O and P) these are the kickboards, the end plates, the end trim, the front trim and the back trim. Sand the ends and at the base of the side panels attach the end plates. Use the drill to make 1/8 inch pilot holes in the end plates then counterbore them ¼ inch deep. Through the end plates into the side panels drive 1 ¼ inch deck screws.
2.To the base of the back and front panels attach the kickboards. Trace the outline of the tapered side panels onto the end trim pieces by holding them against the side panels. Use the circular saw to cut along these lines.
3.Now attach the end trims to the side panels using the 1 ¼ inch deck screws. Attach the front and back trim to the front and back panels so that they cover the end trim edges in the same way.

Step by step plans for an outdoor storage bin – Stage Five– The Lid and Doors

1.Cut out (I), (J) and (K) the door panels, stiles and door rails and attach the stiles and rails to the panels. You should basically have a frame 1 ¾ inches past the door panel edges on all sides.
2.Cut out (T) the door cleats and screw them to the inside face of the front panel exactly behind where the hinges will go. Put on two butt hinges on the outer edge of each door using 1 ¼ deck screws then put a door catch on each door.
3.Cut out (Q) the hinge cleat and attach the back panel’s inside face lined up with the top edge.
4.Take the lid and strap hinges to put in place making sure you position them so that the hinges are between the lid ends and back trim. On the back trim drill pilot holes for the lower hinge plate and mark where the hinge pin location is on the back edge of the lid end.
5.Now remove the lid for a moment and attach both the upper hinge plates and put the lid back in place then do the lower hinge plates using 1 ¼ inch deck screws.

These backyard shed plans are now finished you should have a storage box now that is functional however you may need to do some finishing touches. Sand any rough edges down and use a clear wood sealer or whatever finish you have selected.

 

 

 

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Front Porch Stairs Remodeling – Things to think about

Some people enjoy living in or buying old houses for the experience of fixing them up, restoring features that can be restored and turning the house back into its former glory. One such project that you may be faced with if this is you, is front porch stairs remodeling. Often stairs are rotting, or have been altered from how they originally looked so they need some love and attention. There are several ways to find out what a house or portion of a house may have looked like originally, old photos, looking at similar houses, old plans and so on. This article is about front porch stairs remodeling done to be as accurate as possible on a house built in the 1900s.

When this project was started the existing stairs worked but were not accurate in appearance. A back and white family photo was used as a guide and features noted were the large posts at the bottom of the stairs and on each side of the walls were cedar shakes. They were 12 ft wide but back then only supported by five stringers (these are the boards used in a zig zag to support the risers and treads). Today that is not thought to be enough so deviating from the original work for safety reasons, ten stringers were made instead out of 2 x 12 salvaged lumber.

First thing done in this front porch stairs remodeling project was to take down all existing stairs. Then new frames were built and concrete poured on each side for supporting the new walls. When the concrete was set the 24 inch by 24 inch pillars on either side at the bottom of the stairs were built using deck screws and pressure-treated wood. The frame was anchored to the concrete with anchor bolts and them exterior plywood used for the pillar faces. 2 x 4 pressure-treated lumber was used for the railings on each side which were then faced with OSB board.

Some people enjoy living in or buying old houses for the experience of fixing them up, restoring features that can be restored and turning the house back into its former glory. One such project that you may be faced with if this is you, is front porch stairs remodeling. Often stairs are rotting, or have been altered from how they originally looked so they need some love and attention. There are several ways to find out what a house or portion of a house may have looked like originally, old photos, looking at similar houses, old plans and so on. This article is about front porch stairs remodeling done to be as accurate as possible on a house built in the 1900s.

When this project was started the existing stairs worked but were not accurate in appearance. A back and white family photo was used as a guide and features noted were the large posts at the bottom of the stairs and on each side of the walls were cedar shakes. They were 12 ft wide but back then only supported by five stringers (these are the boards used in a zig zag to support the risers and treads). Today that is not thought to be enough so deviating from the original work for safety reasons, ten stringers were made instead out of 2 x 12 salvaged lumber.

First thing done in this front porch stairs remodeling project was to take down all existing stairs. Then new frames were built and concrete poured on each side for supporting the new walls. When the concrete was set the 24 inch by 24 inch pillars on either side at the bottom of the stairs were built using deck screws and pressure-treated wood. The frame was anchored to the concrete with anchor bolts and them exterior plywood used for the pillar faces. 2 x 4 pressure-treated lumber was used for the railings on each side which were then faced with OSB board.
Cedar was used for trim and risers because it is insect and dry rot resistant. For that reasons 1 x 4 cedar boards were used for the treads too. It was assumed that 1 x 4 boards were used for the original stairs because the porch was still original and the porch deck used 1 x 4 boards so it was probably that what was used for the deck was used for the stairs. Once all the treads and risers were in the OSB was covered with black roofing felt then cedar shakes, tying these walls in with the house.
Finally three inch thick concrete caps that were made for the top of the pillars but 2 inches larger. To age the concrete so that there was not an obvious difference between the old and new baclk grout used for interior floor tiling was used as a stain. Then it was all painted and the project of front porch stairs remodeling was finished.

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Building Your Own Porch Swing

build backyard shed

Building your own porch swing can be a satisfying project to take on, as well as giving you a piece of furniture for your porch that will enable you to relax outside and enjoy some fresh air. They have been a popular item to have in American since the mid 19th century and remain so now, as well as growing in popularity around the rest of the world. This article gives you some things to think about if you are planning on building your own porch swing and a guide on how to do it.

Things to think about when building your own porch swing

TIP! Use a wet sponge on your drywall installation. Don’t sand your drywall seams, sponge them.

You can have a one to four seat swing depending on how many people will probably be using it at any one time. For a four seater you will need it to be five to six feet long and then four to five feet wide. Depth depends on your preference and can range from 2ft to 3 ½ ft. To make it your own style and fit in with your house you can custom design the back and arm rest \

it can be anything from simple to detailed and artistic. Whatever size and design you settle for make sure when you are building your own porch swing that it is going to be comfortable, otherwise it won’t get used! The most popular material still is wood but you can also have plastic or metal swings.

A brief guide to building your own porch swing

Materials and tools

Lumber boards that have been treated of a length and width that meets your decided measurements. Type of wood is up to you and depends on your budget.

A galvanized chain

Fasteners that are rust proof

A circular saw

A jigsaw

Hammer

A tape measure

Electric drill with bits

Suitable screws, nuts and bolts

Instructions

1. (Adjust amounts and measurements to suit) Place three 5ft by 1ft pieces of wood together and use the drill and galvanized wood screws to fasten together to make a rectangular shape that is the seat.

2. For the back take between four to six 5ft by 1 ft boards and fasten them together the same way. You could also buy a ready made more decorative back and arms if you prefer. Otherwise put together the back and seat using nuts and bolts every 5 inches.

TIP! It’s unfortunate, but it’s normal for chair caning to start sagging after a while. There’s an easy trick for repairing caning to a more original form.

3. To make the arm rests you need to cut four pieces at 1 ft and two pieces at 3ft. The short pieces are the arm rest supports and the long pieces are the actual rests.

4. Attach the three pieces together in the shape of an arm rest then repeat and fix on either side of the swing.

5. Use sandpaper to smooth any edges and prevent getting splinters.

TIP! Spruce up your kitchen by putting new knobs and pulls on the cabinets. Not only are cabinet knobs easy to install, but they also make any cabinet look like a brand new one.

6. Now that the body is finished you need to varnish or paint it but make sure your choice also adds protection to the wood and use some anti-termite treatment. When it is completely dry you are ready to hook it up.

7. Make sure that where you are hanging it is safe, and that it is not going to bump into the porch or wall of the house causing damage. In the ceiling of the porch put in 2 large hooks and then put in 2 hooks under the swing near the arm rests. Take the galvanized chain and pass it through the hooks under the seat up to the hooks in the porch ceiling and fasten.

You can now enjoy your finished porch swing for years to come.

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