Announcement: Backyard Shed Plans – Step by Step Plans for An Outdoor Storage Bin

For people who already have a garage and shed but still need some more storage room you may want to consider building an outdoor storage bin. As part of the backyard shed plans here, this handy bin has a top lid that opens for easy access as well as doors at the bottom to get to the lower compartments. Handy for any purpose, storing children’s outdoor games and equipment, fishing gear, fold away lawn chairs, summer lawn decorations, smaller gardening equipment and so on. If you want backyard shed plans that give you something useful, pleasing to look at, but smaller and an easier project to tackle then these step by step plans for an outdoor storage bin may be perfect for you. Keep your yard tidy and your items protected from the weather and elements.

build backyard shed storage bin

Backyard Shed Plans

You will need:
•Two textured cedar plywood siding 5/8” x 4 x 8′
•Two BC fir plywood handy panels 3/4” x 2 x 4′
•Two cedar 1 x 2” x 8′
•Six rough sawn cedar 1 x 3” x 8′
•Two rough sawn cedar 1 x 4” x 8′
•One pine 2 x 2” x 8′
•One pine 1 x 2” x 8′
•A drill
•jig saw
•circular saw
•tape measure
•sand paper
•4 butt hinges
•two 4” strap hinges
•1 1/4” deck screws
•2 1/2” deck screws
•Moisture-resistant glue
•Two door catches
•Clear wood sealer or other finish

A = Cut one lid to 5/8 x 24 x 48 inches from one plywood siding

B = Cut two lid edges to ¾ x 1 ½ x 45 inches from cedar

C = Cut two lid ends to ¾ x 1 ½ x 24 inches from cedar

D = Cut one lid stringer to ¾ x 2 ½ x 21 inches from cedar

E = Cut two end panels to 5/8 x 22 x 42 inches from plywood siding

F = Cut one back panel to 5/8 x 44 ¾ x 42 inches from plywood siding

G = Cut one front panel to 5/8 x 44 ¾ x 37 ½ inches from plywood siding

H = Cut two shelves to ¾ x 20 ¾ x 44 ¾ inches from fir plywood

I = Cut Two door panels to 5/8 x 15 ¾ x 17 ¾ inches from plywood siding

J = Cut four door stiles ¾ x 3 ½ x 21 ¼ inches from cedar

K = Cut four door rails to ¾ x 3 ½ x 12 ¼ inches from cedar

L = Cut two kickboards to ¾ x 2 ½ x 47 ½ inches from cedar

M = Cut two end plates to ¾ x 2 ½ x 22 inches from cedar

N = Cut four end trims ¾ x 2 ½ x 39 ½ inches from cedar

O = Cut two front trim to ¾ x 2 ½ x 35 inches from cedar

P = Cut two back trim to ¾ x 2 ½ x 39 ½ inches from cedar

Q = Cut one hinge cleat to ¾ x 1 ½ x 44 ¾ inches from pine

R = Cut four shelf cleat to 1 ½ x 1 ½ x 20 ¾ inches from pine

S = Cut two back cleat to 1 ½ x 1 ½ x 41 ¾ inches from pine

T = Cut two door cleat to ¾ x 1 ½ x 18 inches from pine

Step by step backyard shed plans for an outdoor storage bin – Stage One – The lid

1.Cut the lid, the led edges, lid ends and lid stringer (A-D) using the circular saw and a straightedge saw. Have the lid ends and edges so that they lay smooth side up and attach together with 2 ½ inch deck screws and glue. In the middle use the same means to attach the the lid stringer.
2.On this frame now apply the glue on the top faces of the edges, ends and stringer then take the lid and place it on top, using 1 ¼ inch deck screws too.

Step by step backyard shed plans for an outdoor storage bin – Stage Two – The panels

1.Cut (F) and (G) the back and front panels and on the inside of the front one measuring from the bottom up draw straight lines at 5 and 23 inches. From each side measure in 4 and 20 inches and draw two straight lines – this is where you will cutout the door openings. Do this by using the drill to drill a 3/8inch starter hole at one corner of each opening then use the jig saw and sand smooth.
2.Cut out (E) the end panels and on the front edge of each one measuring down mark 4 ½ inches then with a line connect these marks to the top corners on the back edge of the panel so that cross-cutting lines are created for the back to front tapers. Use the circular saw to cut along these lines.
3.Now to attach the panels together stand the back panel and fasten it to the side panels using 1 1 /4 inch deck screws and glue

Step by step plans for an outdoor storage bin – Stage Three – The shelves

1.Cut out (H) the shelves then from the bottom of the end panels measure up 25 inches and mark – this is where the top shelf will go. Now cut (R and S) the shelf and back cleats. Attach them using glue just under the marks you made then use 1 ¼ inch deck screws through the back and end panels into the cleats.
2.Now use 1 ¼ inch deck screws to attach the top shelf to the cleats and also drive screws from the back panel into the shelf.
3.The bottom shelf needs to be marked at 4 inches from the bottom of the side panels. Do the bottom cleats and bottom shelf in the same way you did the top.
4.Now take the front panel you cut out earlier and attach to the front between the end panels using 2 ½ inch deck screws and glue.

Step by step plans for an outdoor storage bin – Stage Four – The trim

1.Cut out (L,M,N,O and P) these are the kickboards, the end plates, the end trim, the front trim and the back trim. Sand the ends and at the base of the side panels attach the end plates. Use the drill to make 1/8 inch pilot holes in the end plates then counterbore them ¼ inch deep. Through the end plates into the side panels drive 1 ¼ inch deck screws.
2.To the base of the back and front panels attach the kickboards. Trace the outline of the tapered side panels onto the end trim pieces by holding them against the side panels. Use the circular saw to cut along these lines.
3.Now attach the end trims to the side panels using the 1 ¼ inch deck screws. Attach the front and back trim to the front and back panels so that they cover the end trim edges in the same way.

Step by step plans for an outdoor storage bin – Stage Five– The Lid and Doors

1.Cut out (I), (J) and (K) the door panels, stiles and door rails and attach the stiles and rails to the panels. You should basically have a frame 1 ¾ inches past the door panel edges on all sides.
2.Cut out (T) the door cleats and screw them to the inside face of the front panel exactly behind where the hinges will go. Put on two butt hinges on the outer edge of each door using 1 ¼ deck screws then put a door catch on each door.
3.Cut out (Q) the hinge cleat and attach the back panel’s inside face lined up with the top edge.
4.Take the lid and strap hinges to put in place making sure you position them so that the hinges are between the lid ends and back trim. On the back trim drill pilot holes for the lower hinge plate and mark where the hinge pin location is on the back edge of the lid end.
5.Now remove the lid for a moment and attach both the upper hinge plates and put the lid back in place then do the lower hinge plates using 1 ¼ inch deck screws.

These backyard shed plans are now finished you should have a storage box now that is functional however you may need to do some finishing touches. Sand any rough edges down and use a clear wood sealer or whatever finish you have selected.




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Build Garden Shed Yourself – Free Guide for a Basic Garden Shed

garden shed

If you are looking for a project to get your teeth in, and need a storage space for the garden or are not happy with the shed you have, why not build a garden shed yourself! In this article you will find an easy to follow guide on how to build garden shed yourself including a list of materials and tools you will need. You do not have to be an architect or carpenter or DIY expert to get an end result that is both functional and looks good, just have the right materials and tools, and follow the guide. The end result will take you a week or two to reach and will be a simple basic garden shed suitable for any garden, no windows but with double doors. Here is a picture of what you will be working towards.

Tools and hardware items you will need:

A drill

A circular saw



4 lbs 16d galvanized common nails

2 lb common nails 10d

10 lbs common nails 16d

3 lbs galvanized common nails 8d

3 lbs nails 8d

9 lbs finish nails or galvanized siding nails 8d

5 lbs roofing nails galvanized 1”

One door handle

One door lock

One door head bolt

One door foot bolt

6 Metal galvanized hinges for the door with screws measuring 3 ½”

Construction glue / adhesive


Materials you will need to build a garden shed yourself:

For the foundation – 1.25 cu. yd of compactable gravel as drainage material

2 Landscape timbers pressure treated measuring 10′ 4 x 6 for skids


For the floor – 2 rim joists measuring 10′ 2 x 8 for ground contact and pressure treated

9 joists pressure treated measuring 8′ 2 x 8

3 floor sheathing sheets measuring 4 x 8′ 3/4” grade plywood, tongue and

groove ext


For the walls – 2 bottom plates measuring 10′ and 2 bottom plates measuring 8′ 2 x 4

4 top plates measuring 10′ and 4 top plates measuring 8′ 2 x 4

1 door header measuring 10′ 2 x 6

36 studs measuring 8′ 2 x 4


For the roof frame – 6 rafters measuring 12′ 2 x 6

2 rafter blocking measuring 10′ 2 x 6

2 collar ties measuring 12′ 2 x 4

1 ridge board measuring 10′ 1 x 8


For the roofing – 5 sheets of 1/2” plywood exterior grade roof sheathing measuring 4 x 8′

1 roll of building paper 15#

11/4 Asphalt shingle squares, per sq. Min 250#

Metal drip edge measuring 45 linear ft


For the door – 7 pressure treated frames measuring 8′ 2 x 4

1 sheet for a panel measuring 4 x 8′ 1/2” 1-11 texture


For the exterior – 11 sheets of plywood siding texture 1-11 measuring 4 x 8′ 1/2”

4 fascia measuring 12′ 1 x 8

8 corner trims measuring 8′ 1 x 2

2 gable wall trims measuring 8′ 1 x 4

16 linear ft of siding flashing, metal, Z flashing.

4 pressure-treated plywood siding for stops and overlap trim measuring 8′ 1 x 2

How to build a garden shed yourself

  1. First of all you need to get the foundation ready using the compacted gravel. The skids are going to be 95” apart measuring from outside edge to outside edge. Make two gravel beds that will take the skids making then 4” thick. Then cut the two lumber skids to 119” and position them on the beds of gravel. Be sure all is level and they are parallel all the way. Now for the floor frame you want to cut two 2 x 8 joists at 119” and then nine of them at 92”. When you assemble make sure the frame is square by checking the diagonals. Then nail the frame to the skids using the galvanized common nails 16d.
  2. Take the 3 plywood floor sheets and fit onto the floor frame making sure the tongue and groove fit together properly. Use the galvanized common nails 8d to fasten to the frame.
  3. The rear wall – Use a 2 x 4 top plate and bottom plate and cut to 119”. Then you need ten 2 x 4 studs measuring 92 3/8”. Seven spaced evenly across and two for support. Attach to the edge of the back of the floor and use the two left over 2 x 4 studs as braces.
  4. The side walls are both the same, a bottom and top plate measuring 88” and then seven 92 3/8” studs. Finally construct the front wall with two plates measuring 119”, eight studs measuring 92 3/8” and two 79” jack studs. Use 1/2” plywood to space between the 2 x 6 header and instal. Use three cripple studs then lift and attach the front wall and put in double top plates on it as well as the other 3 walls. At this point you should have a construction looking like this.
  5. Cut out 12 2 x 6 rafters and take the ridge board cutting it to 119”. Install the 1/2” siding on the exterior wall starting with back wall. Make sure there is a minimum of an inch hanging down over the bottom edges. After the back wall do the front then side walls then add the Z flashing. Finish the siding to the top of where the end rafters will be.
  6. Now you can put in the rafters and the already cut ridge board. With four 2 x 4 collar ties cut to 64” and have the ends mitered to 33.5 degrees then attach between the sets of four rafters that are on the inside with common nails 10d. These need to be near the top edge of the rafters but not over them. Now on the top plates of the side walls note the gable wall stud layout and using your level also make matching notes on the end rafters. Take the 10 2 x 4 studs and cut them to fit, the top ends will also need to be mitered to 33.5 degrees. Now put in the studs.
  7. You are almost there! Now you need to add your roofing, so starting at the bottom corner of either side put on the 1/2” roof sheathing, the metal drip edge, then the building paper and finally fix on the asphalt shingle roofing. Take the 2 x 4 bracing and the ½’ siding and construct the two doors so that they both measure 48 1/2” x 80 1/2”. Before you install the doors you need to mortise the butt hinges into the door brace and frame of the wall. Then when you out them in make sure there is a gap at the top and bottom of 1/4”.
  8. Finally you need to do the trimming. Use 1 x 2s for the corners of your new shed and one for one of the doors to cover the gap between them. Use the 1 x 4 trim over the Z flashing on the sides turning it horizontally. Now put in the locks and handle and your shed. Job well done
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Materials Needed to Build Fire Wood Shed

firewoos shed

Constructing a Fire Wood Shed

Having a fireplace or wood burning stove is a great way to heat your house and save money on heating bills particularly in winter if you live somewhere cold! If you do not already have somewhere to store it, you need a fire wood shed to keep it relatively dry and protect it from the rain and snow. This fire wood shed is easy to build and has 2 sides and a roof. It is meant to be built up against the side of your house or garage giving it a back wall so that just the front is open. It also keeps the wood shed close to where you need it and out of the way. This is not a wood shed you can walk around in and have green wood separated from dry wood, it is just a safe place to store the wood so it is there when you need it. In this plan a roof is included but some people just use tarp or plastic sheeting so that is up to you.

Materials needed for constructing a fire wood shed

For the frame – Two 10 ft side and end floor supports,  2 x 4 pressure treated

One 8 ft center floor support, 2 x 4 pressure treated

Three 10ft floor boards, 2 x 6 pressure treated

Four 8 ft corner posts, 2 x 4 cedar

Two 8 ft headers, 2 x 4 cedar

One 8 ft and one 4 ft rafters, 2 x 4 cedar

For the slats – Five 8ft end slats, 1 x 6 cedar

For the roof – One sheet of 4 x 8 ft sheathing, ¾ inch CDX plywood

Two 10 ft roof edging, 1 x 2 cedar

37 sq ft 15# building paper

25 sq ft 18 inch cedar shingles

Two 8 ft roof cap, one with 1 x 4 cedar and the other with 1 x 3 cedar.

Fasteners – Eight ¼ “ x 3” lag screws with washers

Twelve 3 1/2” deck screws

Sixty two 3” deck screws

Thirty six 2 1/2” deck screws

Fifty 2” deck screws

One hundred 1 5/8” deck screws

Thirty 6d galvanized finish nails

1 lb 3d galvanized roofing nails

Instructions on constructing a fire wood shed

We will start with the floor frame. Take the 2 x 4 pressure treated side supports and cut to 6ft 5 inches, then cut the two end supports at 2 ft 2 inches. Attach the frame together sliding the end supports between the side supports using the 3 1/2” deck screws. Make sure there is room in the frame for the lag screws that will fasten the corner posts to the frame. Cut the center support from the 8ft 2 x 4 so it measures 6ft 2 inches. This should slide in the middle of the rectangle frame you currently have. Make sure it is centered.

Take the 2 x 6 and cut into twelve floor boards that each measure 2ft 5 inches. You can check your frame is square by measuring from one diagonal to the other. If all is well, line up your first floor board with one end, drill in pilot holes and use the 3” deck screws to attach. Now you need 1” spacing in between each floor board so that air circulates your fire wood and keeps it dry. Use some of your scrap wood and cut yourself two 1 inch pieces and you can use these as spacers. Now fix on the rest of the floor boards using the spacers.

Now to make the corner posts. Each one is made from a full width 2 x 4 and then a 2 x 4 ripped to 2”. So take two 8ft 2 x 4s and rip to a width of 2”. Cut the full width 2 x 4s two measuring 4ft 5 inches and two to 3 ft 7 inches. The ripped 2 x 4 need to also be cut to these lengths and the tops of the wood need to be angled at 18 degrees

Put together each post before you attach to the frame. Attach by making pilot holes and using 3” screws through the full width to the half width piece. Use square cuts to make sure the posts are to the right length, the front being 4 ft 1 inch is you measure from the longest point of the angle, and the back posts being 3ft 2 ¼ inches from the short point of the angle.
From each end use a pencil to mark 1 ½ inches in then line up that mark with the bottom edge of the floor frame and use a clamp to hold in place. You can now drill in the counterbored pilot holes and then fasten the posts to the frame with two 1/4” x 3” lag screws and washers.

Constructing a fire wood shed roof frame.

Take two 2 x 4 and cut to 6ft 1 inch for the roof headers. The top edge of each needs to be beveled to 18 degrees but make sure the wider face is still 3 ½ inches after the beveling. Use the 2 ½ deck screws and attach the roof headers to the corner posts making sure the outside face lines up with the outside post face and the edges that were beveled line up with the post tops.

Cut two end rafters at 1 ft 11 ¼ inches and two center rafters at 2 ft 3 ½ inches. Line up the outer rafters with the corner posts and use 2 ½ deck screws to toescrew the rafters to the corner posts. Now take the inner rafters and use the same method to attach them 2ft 1 inch in from the outer ones.

Time to cut and attach the slats on each end. Measure the bottom from post to post and cut your bottom slats first. Make sure the bottom edge is lined up with the bottom of the floor frame and attach with 1 5/8” deck screws. Now how much space you leave between slats is up to you and depends on how your frame is looking so far. Do some measuring and then work out how much space you are going to leave between each slat and make a couple of spacers again like you did with the floor boards. Cut the rest of the slats you need and continue using 1 5/8” screws to fasten into the corner posts.


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